For any astro-imager, focus is always a primary concern. When doing deep sky it has to be spot on to get those tack sharp stars that we love to see. Fortunately for DSO imagers, there are aids such as a Bathinov mask that can help ensure you are on the mark.
Bahtinov Mask |
In planetary imaging it is a little more challenging. We also need to be in perfect focus to capture the subtle details, but a Bathinov mask isn't going to work on a non-point light source. Trying to move the scope to a bright star to focus first before centering the planet also seems to fall short. What one is left with is manually fiddling with the focus knob while watching a feature of the planet to get it as sharp as possible. For example, a Jovian moon or the Cassini division are often good targets to pay attention to in this effort.
Unfortunately the planetary imager is confronted with another problem: the high magnification utilized to get the planet's disk to a suitable size. This means that the slightest touch causes the planet to wildly dance in (and sometime exit from) the field. The result is an iterative set of focus-recenter-evaluate attempts until you feel it is as good as you can get (or your patience is gone and you settle for "close enough"). When rebuilding the OTA for my 10" Cyrus1 Newtonian I even invested in a nice JMI focuser with a feather touch micro-focuser, but it still didn't solve the fallout of a human hand touching the scope.
I finally came to accept that investing in a motorized focuser was going to be necessary to solve the problem. Based on the positive experience Dale Ghent had with MoonLite focusers for HALO, I opted to order from them. It takes a bit of time to go through all the various options but I eventually balanced my desire for bells & whistles with my budget to get a Crayford 2" focuser with their universal adapter and stepper motor for about $700. To my surprise and delight they had the unit to me within about a week.
Next came replacing the existing JMI with this snazzy unit. If you look at their universal adapter, it is "a plate with multiple many different 4 bolt hole patterns for Newts over the years, Meade, GSO, Orion, Celestron, etc."
However, none of them aligned with the existing holes I had placed into the tube when installing the JMI focuser. So it became a tedious process of securing the plate with a couple of openings that did align and then trying to accurately measure where the new hole had to be drilled to accommodate where the opening was on the plate. After a couple of hours the plate was finally secured and motorized focuser attached.
As you can see from the picture above, this is a substantial unit. It occurred to me that this would probably alter the scope's balance once I added in the Barlow, camera, and possibly an Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector (ADC). In the past the scope had always been a little "rear heavy" when imaging, requiring placement of a magnetic weight along a shelf bracket that runs along the front half of the tube. I opted to install a similar bracket along the back half of the scope, and indeed it was needed to achieve balance when I did a dry run.
A couple weeks later with Jupiter and Saturn getting a reasonable (if not great) altitude in the pre-dawn skies, I gave the MoonLite unit a test run. I did not purchase a separate hand controller to operate the focuser but instead attached it to the laptop using the provided USB cable. The unit also has to be powered - so yet another cord dangling from the focuser that I tried to tuck alongside the scope to avoid any tension or vibration it might cause.
The interface is pretty intuitive, allowing you to move in or out by orders of magnitude. Once Saturn was centered it was easy to display the planet in the video capture software and have the MoonLite Single Focuser app on top so that I could watch the planet as I commanded the focuser to adjust its position. During the process there was minimal movement of the planet and no risk of knocking it out of the field. I ended up getting what I felt was as good a focus as I could achieve and was happy with the result after I processed the video captures the next day (below).
While the swapping out of the original JMI for the MoonLite ended up being a little challenging in the installation stage, I'm very happy (and blessed) that I could do it because the results are what I was looking for - a far less painful and far more accurate focusing experience. Like so many other hobbies, amateur astronomy (especially when coupled with photography) is an investment. It seems to be a continuous process of identifying what might improve our ability to see or photograph the heavens and then budgeting to make that next upgrade.
1 I call it the "Cyrus" telescope because the optics were made by Charles Cyrus, a friend and excellent ATM from back in my days with the Baltimore Astronomical Society. After Charlie's passing his instrument made its way to me and I have enjoyed it for a couple of decades now, most recently redoing the OTA that houses the mirror.